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Idzit — 1745-60 traveling suit
Published: 2010-02-18 07:35:24 +0000 UTC; Views: 9585; Favourites: 110; Downloads: 0
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This is not a stock photo. You are not authorized to use it for any purpose whatsoever.
1745-1760 Jacket, petticoat and muff / hand-warmer
(Please excuse my sub-par photography, I just really wanted to show you guys a photo rightthisminute, but I'll be doing an official photo shoot really soon. Thanks for your patience.)
This outfit is made of a cream-coloured quilted cotton lined with a cotton broadcloth (in the jacket). I'm wearing a bumroll underneath because I don't have a hooped crinoline, but the effect I find is just as lovely and probably more convenient.
The muff is fairly high-tech; it's lined with polar fleece and Thinsulate©! Not to mention there's a little pocket inside for a mirror, lipstick, cell-phone, wallet... blunderbuss - whatever! I did not use a pattern for the construction of the muff, it was fairly straightforward. I might one day post a tutorial on how to make one though...
"The white ruffles of a chemise would have shown below the flounce at the end of the sleeve. This suit would probably have been worn for travelling... A handkerchief would have been worn at the neck. The skirt would have probably been supported by a dome-shaped hoop-petticoat."
-Janet Arnold.
Costume: Constructed by me
Pattern: Janet Arnold, "Patterns of Fashion"
Photo: my patient man-servant
Edit:
So then, *GeneralVyse made a ♥ ♥ ♥ hat ♥ ♥ ♥ that was SO PERFECT for my traveling suit, that he gave it to me. *wink wink*
jk. But, it's so perfect for my outfit... and you all know how I feel about HATS!!!
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Comments: 109
The coat looks soo authentic, and your black steampunk jacket is absolutely awsome!!!! I love them both soooooo much
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Pure white satin brocade with a trailing skirt, for travelling, which could be a pretty dirty endeavor in the 18th century? Serious doubts there. That is one incredibly beautiful dress, though.
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Thank you for your input, but the outfit is in fact an accurate reproduction of a historical garment which is still in existence and resides at Snowshill Manor in Gloucestershire, UK. The pattern is from Janet Arnold's book "Patterns of Fashion 1" and is described as such:
"A white quilted satin jacket with a hood and matching petticoat... This suit would have probably have been worn for travelling."
A lady of quality wouldn't have been trudging through the muck, and in winter, there is snow covering the ground.
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I'm not doubting its existence as a historical garment, merely the accuracy of the author's guess that it was probably worn for travelling. Even first class travel back then could be pretty dirty, and even fashion historians sometimes fail to consider things like that.
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I doubt that Ms. Janet Arnold would "fail to consider things like that".
Since it's heavily lined, it would have been worn most likely in the snow, which is not always laden with mud. Please stop with your assumptions.
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*blinks* Okay, I won't question the description any further and I apologize for any personal offense my previous comments have given. The hostility is really not necessary.
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I'm going to have to go with Senzanima on this one, Idzit.
While I'm sure it's a recreation of a historical garment and that the original author claimed it was a traveling suit, I'm having serious doubts about that last bit, not to cast any aspersions on her. Even the best of people can be wrong sometimes.
Unfortunately, in those times, a lady of quality would have been 'trudging through the muck'. (The snow wouldn't help, either, btw: snow + any amount of carriage/horse/person traffic quickly turns to muddy slush, all the worse for a white dress. Sorry.) Muck was everywhere in those days - she would have been getting in and out of her preferred means of travel, which would have meant her train catching on doorframes and ripping, the white fabric being splattered with manure and mud from other passing vehicles (the streets were rarely cleaned and open sewers often ran down the middle of them)and stains from extensive sweating (no air conditioning or anti-perspirant), food and the badly-dyed seat she would have no doubt been sitting on. There weren't many public restrooms in those days, so she would likely have gone out into the bushes of wherever they were passing, or used a bourdaloue in the carriage. Things often had to be spot-cleaned in those days and few methods of conveyance had proper wheel-shocks to speak of.
So while it's a gorgeous dress and you should be very proud of it, when you combine the filth and sweat of a long trip, the jolts and long hours, the heat and inconvenience of trying to get a long train in and out of a coach without it ripping or being shut in the door, I think you'll agree that any (sensible) lady, even of means, would choose something a little wiser for traveling in.
It is a lovely ensemble, though, and I don't mean to cause offense by pointing this out.
Also, I couldn't help but notice that you mention concealing a blunderbuss in a muff. Since the typical blunderbuss had between a sixteen and twenty-four inch long barrel and was constructed of heavy steel or brass, this would not be practical. They are fascinating weapons, though. Just thought I'd point that out.
Have an excellent day!
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This is sooo beautiful!
I was wondering, which pattern did you use exactly? I have two books form Janet Arnold as well...
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It's the Snowshill Manor travelling costume from "Patterns of Fashion 1"
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We have far too similar taste! This one's high on my to-do list, though I think I'm going to go for a non-quilted version. It's so great to see it made up - it looks so gorgeous and suits you very well indeed!
Did you follow the pattern closely on the hood, or modify it slightly? From the pictures in Arnold I was concerned the hood might come up as quite small (ie, close to the head), whereas I wanted a larger hood (more like the one you have), I'm not very sure how I would go about that, so if the pattern comes out like this, you've made me a very happy girl! x
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I suppose you don't have to make it quilted, but it makes the skirt pouf out better. All I wore underneath is a bumroll and one petticoat. Perhaps a thick wool would be nice, or velvet.
I did follow the pattern closely, and for the pleats on the back of the hood - beware, they are quite difficult to fit under your machine. lol Do a mockup first and see how you feel about the size. I felt it was a perfect size, but needs to be pinned to the head if you're going to wear it, as any gust of wind blows it right off.
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Yeah, I was envisaging a graphite grey wool (if I can find the right fabric) - I figure I might be able to wear it for modern-day-wear if I can get the fit right.
I'm so pleased that the pattern comes out this well - thank you for answering my Qs and for the pleat tip. Might have to get out the thimble and hand-sewing needles for that bit. Wind - the enemy of hood-wearers everywhere!
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Oooh that would be lovely!
Yeah, break out that thimble.
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I'm surprised it's white - being a travelling suit, I'd expect such to be in a relatively dull but safe colour, like dark green. However, it's simply gorgeous in white
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Thank you - I just like following the description in Janet Arnold's book, "Patterns of Fashion", and she specified that the fabric was white satin! You would think that a bad idea... but it's quite lovely! I was terrified to get it dirty though.
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This costume is absolutly WONDERFUL. Is it possible to take inspriation from it? I've got a 18th century project and I'd love my heroin to wear something like that, this is really beautiful. I'll credit you as my inspiration source of course 
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Pas de problême. Si tu veux t'inspirer de mon costume, ça me ferait plaisir, du moment que tu n'utilises pas la photo elle-même pour ton projet. J'aimerais bien voir ce que tu créés!!
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Ah mince, j'ai écris mon emssage en anglais (question d'habitude!) pfff moi alors!
Je te tiendrais au courant, c'est super gentil! Je suis à genoux devant ce costume! Et non, je n'utilise que l'idée de la robe que je trouve très jolie
Merci encore! Et bonne continuation!
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ha ha Ca va, on ne s'attend pas souvent de trouver quelqu'un de bilingue sur l'internet.
J'ai vu le début de ton dessin... Il est superbe!!!! ♥
Si j'amais tu as envie de t'inspirer d'autres photos de ma galerie, je t'en pris, ne te gênes pas!!!
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Ce qui est rigolo, c'est que ma meilleure amie me disait hier qu'elle avait eu une idée de dessin pour moi. Et quand elle a vu celui que j'ai posté hier elle m'a dit: "arghhh nan, c'était justement de la même robe que je voulais m'inspirer"! Comme quoi elle n'est pas passée inaperçue, les gens l'aiment beaucoup!
Encore une fois, merci beaucoup! Ta galerie est une vraie petite perle!
D'ailleurs question: où as-tu trouvé ce magnifique petit tricorne? Si tu l'as fait toi même je me taille les veines (dis-donc j'ai une tendance à l'autodestruction ce matin, je t'assure je ne suis pas comme ça d'habitude! XD)
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Je l'ai fait moi-même, d'un vieu chapeau de feutre que j'ai retaillé. Faut pas s'en tailler les veines, ça vaut pas la peine. ha ha ha ha
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Mdr moi ca m'est arrivé le midi en allant chercher à manger, je revenais à l'école. flippant aussi, surtoutà Paris quoi O_O Y'a tellement de gens!
Toi même?! Gahhhh *s'en va sauter par la fenetre*
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C'est bizarre, huh? *rêve de Paris*
Le chapeau je l'avais acheté à un magasin l'été dernier. Le fond du chapeau était trop grand, donc j'ai coupé le rebord, et je j'ai recousu. J'ai ensuite coupé le rebord un peu, ajouté de la dentelle... Rien de super compliqué.
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Oui mais il n'empêche qu'il faut trouver la base à retravailler! Je ne sais pas ou je pourrais trouver un tel modèle! Ici c'est tout ou rien, j'ai déjà cherché. Soit c'est un chapeau/tricorne de carnaval à 5/10€, soit c'est le beau modèle dans une boutique de théâtre à 120€ TT_TT Quelle misère!
Pourtant on est à Paris merde!
En tous cas ça rend très bien comme ça, on y voit que du feu! L'ensemble est ravissant, ce petit tricorne donne vraiment la final touch comme on dit
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Il faut dire que j'étais à la bonne place au bon moment. C'était une "bargain", comme on dit chez nous (en plein franglais).
Je te remercie, tu es trop gentille.
PS - on s'échange de place? Paris serait peut-être bien au printemps?? ha ha ha
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Ohhh ça peut aller, il fait souvent froid aussi, mais surement pas autant que chez vous
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Magnifique! dommage que les fêtes de la Nouvelles-France soient en été!
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Si il fait moins beau un jour, je pourrai peut-etre porter l'habit pareil. C'est en cotton, et probablement moins pire que de porter du taffeta de polyester en plein soleil...
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Gorgeous! Did you use any commercial patterns or did you draft everything yourself?
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It's all from Janet Arnold's "Patterns of fashion". I drafted every piece.
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As always, amazing work! You rock!
------
"I'm not dead yet... I think I'll go for a walk."
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Thank you darling. How've you been??
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Very nice! 
~Lady B
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Thank you! The description in Janet Arnold's book said "white satin", this one at least is cream. lol I like to stick to the description as much as possible, but it was also the only colour this fabric came in. I'm not going to drag THIS ONE through the muck. lol
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Hehehehe... I would hope not. That's one of the things that baffle me and I'm not so brave to have something white while reenacting. It won't stay white for long... guaranteed.
Tis right nice.
~Lady B
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I agree. I wouldn't in my right mind do something in white. It's just not sane. But in this case, I knew it would be really lovely and something quite special.
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:::nods::: it is lovely.
I think I saw another outfit like the one you made and was mentioned in Arnold's book... it's a quilted pink silk outfit, just like the one you made. Rather lovely. Spotted another yellow quilted outfit. So amazing the amount of styles and outfits worn back then. What variety!
~Lady B
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I LOVE ALL OF THEM. ALL OF THE POUFFY OUTFITS I LOVE THEM!! ha ha ha
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Oh, I completely agree.
~Lady B
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Darnit that's stunning i have the perfect accoutrement for it though! [link]
All your own work again!?!?! I'm staggerred, it really is beautiful, i think i like these more subtle/angelic colours for your costumes, but then again, they're all great!
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ZOMG!!! How much are you asking for this hat?!?! We were CLEARLY thinking along the same lines. I would really be interested in buying that from you. it's hella gorgeous, and obviously meant to go with my outfit.
Yes, all my own work. Pattern from the wonderful Janet Arnold. You're too kind...
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