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Description
No, you didn't miss me uploading the photo of revision 1. In fact revision 1 (or at least what's left of it) is right next to it. This device, based off of the device the 8-Bit Guy made in his video on how character LCDs work , provides a way to manually control a character LCD by entering 8-bits of data. Obviously I used different switches than he did, and I used a proper monostable 555 timer debounce circuit instead of just a capacitor (I tried that originally and it didn't fully get rid of the bouncing problem).

Revision 1 did work, though it was fairly cramped and the switches were not designed to go into a prototype board like this, and so at least one was somewhat damaged and would not fully turn off unless you made absolutely sure it was in the off position. At least, it did until the micro USB port I used for power broke off (one of the reasons why I dislike the connector, unfortunately it's what I'm stuck with until I can find some simple USB-C breakout boards), rendering it unable to be powered. That, along with the flaws of revision 1 is why revision 2 exists. It unfortunately still uses micro USB, but now it includes a JST connector for an alternative way to power it. It's bigger and less cramped as I was able to find bigger prototype boards, and it uses more reliable (at least in this use case) switches. I'll also soon be adding a brightness potentiometer for the backlight.

The message written on it is due to me posting this photo in a Discord server I'm in where I had initially uploaded this, along with photos of revision 1 (not giving the link as it's a private Discord server), and later somewhat vented about how the connector broke when that happened.

Description
No, you didn't miss me uploading the photo of revision 1. In fact revision 1 (or at least what's left of it) is right next to it. This device, based off of the device the 8-Bit Guy made in his video on how character LCDs work , provides a way to manually control a character LCD by entering 8-bits of data. Obviously I used different switches than he did, and I used a proper monostable 555 timer debounce circuit instead of just a capacitor (I tried that originally and it didn't fully get rid of the bouncing problem).

Revision 1 did work, though it was fairly cramped and the switches were not designed to go into a prototype board like this, and so at least one was somewhat damaged and would not fully turn off unless you made absolutely sure it was in the off position. At least, it did until the micro USB port I used for power broke off (one of the reasons why I dislike the connector, unfortunately it's what I'm stuck with until I can find some simple USB-C breakout boards), rendering it unable to be powered. That, along with the flaws of revision 1 is why revision 2 exists. It unfortunately still uses micro USB, but now it includes a JST connector for an alternative way to power it. It's bigger and less cramped as I was able to find bigger prototype boards, and it uses more reliable (at least in this use case) switches. I'll also soon be adding a brightness potentiometer for the backlight.

The message written on it is due to me posting this photo in a Discord server I'm in where I had initially uploaded this, along with photos of revision 1 (not giving the link as it's a private Discord server), and later somewhat vented about how the connector broke when that happened.