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Phoenix-Lair-Forge — tanto, unhilted

Published: 2004-11-23 01:59:12 +0000 UTC; Views: 803; Favourites: 8; Downloads: 51
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Description This is the same knife unhilted. 1095 mono steel. completely hand made.
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Comments: 26

sstheblacksmith [2006-09-21 01:53:51 +0000 UTC]

Hey man, got that thing mounted yet?

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sstheblacksmith [2006-07-17 19:08:32 +0000 UTC]

Nice, 1095 makes for such a good hamon.

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Karjanainen [2006-07-03 20:55:09 +0000 UTC]

Awesome work you got there, mate! Is the geometry hira-zukuri or shinogi-zukuri? It seems like hira-zukuri in this one. And I just love the hamon. Great work! From a non-professional blacksmith, and with my 2 years experience in nihon-to and japanese sword construction (from books), I could say this is something you should be proud of Congratulations!

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Wolfie-83 [2006-03-19 11:03:19 +0000 UTC]

very nice hamon, 1095 really does bring out clay dif tempering stand out brightly polished right

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Silver11k [2005-10-23 15:59:50 +0000 UTC]

Really good work

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ScytheLust [2005-10-21 00:48:39 +0000 UTC]

Very nice blade! I am looking to be a blacksmith myself, but Im new to all the math stuff...What made you choose the .95 carbon rating?

In either case, you make a brilliant blade.

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to ScytheLust [2005-10-21 12:18:06 +0000 UTC]

1095 is one of the steels that my teacher choose, there is very little math in bladesmithing, more conceptual metallurgy is more important. Any steel from 1050 through 1095 will work fine for blades, 1095 has a higher carbon content, and therefore is less forgiving, steels like 1050 are more forgiving, but may not show as much activity in the hamon in a heat treat, but 1095 might be a little brittle for swords, though it makes great knives. If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a question. Thanks for the comment.

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ScytheLust In reply to Phoenix-Lair-Forge [2005-10-21 16:55:13 +0000 UTC]

For a sword I would probably choose something like around .60 or .70.

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to ScytheLust [2005-10-22 13:06:06 +0000 UTC]

that should be fine, and inexpensive to boot.

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ScytheLust In reply to Phoenix-Lair-Forge [2005-10-22 15:34:58 +0000 UTC]

So I am learning something!

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SpAzZnaticShuRIken [2005-04-27 02:56:52 +0000 UTC]

nniiiccce, thats tyte dude i wish i could make my own blades

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to SpAzZnaticShuRIken [2005-04-27 03:31:56 +0000 UTC]

Thank you very much. It's hard work, but with enough patience it is a learnable craft.

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SpAzZnaticShuRIken In reply to Phoenix-Lair-Forge [2005-04-27 03:32:51 +0000 UTC]

i bet... do u enjoy it? or is it ur job?

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to SpAzZnaticShuRIken [2005-04-27 03:37:03 +0000 UTC]

Almost everything I make is for sale, presently I'm a student, and this is a side activity.

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SpAzZnaticShuRIken In reply to Phoenix-Lair-Forge [2005-04-27 03:42:40 +0000 UTC]

sweet.... so ur supplied with the heat n evereything u need???n that new deviation u made of u with your work in progress. Telll me bout that sword

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to SpAzZnaticShuRIken [2005-04-27 04:13:32 +0000 UTC]

It is a katana, which of course, is a japanese style long sword. Its made of L6 which is a low ally steel. If I had some slightly more complex tools, I could put a pretty unique heat treat on it, but since I don't I'm probably going to use an interrupted quench in water. I have a small kunai also made from L6 so that I can test the response of the steel. With a proper heat treat the steel should be very very tough because of the characteristics of the steel. Presently the saber grind on it is very non traditional, after the heat treat it will be stoned to a convex grind, which is traditional.

The sword is a mono steel construction which does not follow the traditional laminated construction found in most japanese swords. It also is not folded. While folding steel traditionally was used to purify the steel and make it stronger, the purity of the steel produced by mills is high enough that the folding only adds aesthetic value. When it is finished it will have a full compliment of traditional style fittings made form poplar.

I do have my own heat. I built my own forge and acquired all of the tools (hammers, files, anvil vice) necessary to continue working blades at my house. I use a propane forge and a 175 pound anvil.

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SpAzZnaticShuRIken In reply to Phoenix-Lair-Forge [2005-04-27 04:30:06 +0000 UTC]

Wow... reading most of that I understood except my vocab isnt very high. -lmfao- But that's hellaz tyte. Really sweet tew. How long does it take to file a blade to be sharp enough to cut through sumthin really well... like bamboo or sumthin?

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to SpAzZnaticShuRIken [2005-04-27 04:46:19 +0000 UTC]

Depends on length. from something under a foot, probably a full day to shape, a full say to polish and sharpen, and these things are sharp. That tanto can cut through and 8 x 11 sheet of paper, the long way, one stroke, in mid air.

For longer blades, well there is probably 3 days in that katana already, and i have at least one more to go. (and I mean full days.) and that still need to be hardened.

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SpAzZnaticShuRIken In reply to Phoenix-Lair-Forge [2005-04-27 12:16:52 +0000 UTC]

Dang that's sharp as hell!! Shyt, that's soo tyte. Wow. How much do you usually sell ur long sword for?

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to SpAzZnaticShuRIken [2005-04-27 13:35:26 +0000 UTC]

If your interested I also do custom ordered pieces, though they take a while to make, especially during the school year (which is almost over). Drop me an email if you want, we could probably work something out.

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SpAzZnaticShuRIken In reply to Phoenix-Lair-Forge [2005-04-27 20:33:39 +0000 UTC]

Sweet!!! That's awesome. Cuz I've been wanting like a fantasy sword or sumthin. I could like, draw a design. But sure...

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to SpAzZnaticShuRIken [2005-04-27 13:01:19 +0000 UTC]

Usually they go for between 100 to a couple hundred. It sounds expensive, but you have to remember that unlike prints, there is only 1, and it might take several complete days to make. Also to put that in perspective, many smiths make knives that fetch thousands, but that have MS ratings.

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SpAzZnaticShuRIken In reply to Phoenix-Lair-Forge [2005-04-27 20:35:21 +0000 UTC]

Whoa, sounds like a lotta stuff to get done... wat's an MS Rating

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to SpAzZnaticShuRIken [2005-04-27 23:15:47 +0000 UTC]

Master Smith, ABS certifies smiths, its nothing that a smith has to go through, but many professionals do get the rating, its actually not much of a chore if you are already skilled.

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SpAzZnaticShuRIken In reply to Phoenix-Lair-Forge [2005-04-28 00:29:59 +0000 UTC]

Shyt, that is hellaz tyte... If only I had the time and patience, I'd prob. kill myself with my first creation.-lol-

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Phoenix-Lair-Forge In reply to SpAzZnaticShuRIken [2005-04-27 04:13:31 +0000 UTC]

It is a katana, which of course, is a japanese style long sword. Its made of L6 which is a low ally steel. If I had some slightly more complex tools, I could put a pretty unique heat treat on it, but since I don't I'm probably going to use an interrupted quench in water. I have a small kunai also made from L6 so that I can test the response of the steel. With a proper heat treat the steel should be very very tough because of the characteristics of the steel. Presently the saber grind on it is very non traditional, after the heat treat it will be stoned to a convex grind, which is traditional.

The sword is a mono steel construction which does not follow the traditional laminated construction found in most japanese swords. It also is not folded. While folding steel traditionally was used to purify the steel and make it stronger, the purity of the steel produced by mills is high enough that the folding only adds aesthetic value. When it is finished it will have a full compliment of traditional style fittings made form poplar.

I do have my own heat. I built my own forge and acquired all of the tools (hammers, files, anvil vice) necessary to continue working blades at my house. I use a propane forge and a 175 pound anvil.

👍: 0 ⏩: 0